Exploring stellar Charlevoix: Come with me to quaint Quebec

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Around 450 million years ago a massive meteor crashed on Earth leaving a large crater, which we now call Charlevoix, Quebec.

Charlevoix (pronounced, SHAR-lə-vwah) is a beautiful, nature-filled region around two hours northeast of Quebec City. The meteor did a magnificent job creating a beautiful landscape that today consists of tree-packed rolling hills, national parks and farmland on the northern shores of the St. Lawrence River. The area is perfect for summer and winter activities like hiking, biking, cross-country skiing and so much more.

I spent three and a half action-packed days there learning what the area can offer visitors. I got way more adventure than expected but loved every moment for what it offered.

Charlevoix is great for families, friends, solo exploration and couples because there is so much to see, do, explore and more. 

I went with my boyfriend, which was our first trip together and this trip’s first unwritten adventure. I live in Toronto and whenever I have the option to fly from the city’s downtown airport, Billy Bishop, I will. We were scheduled to fly out from Billy Bishop on the same day when an issue with Microsoft caused flight cancellations — unscheduled adventure number two.

It should be straightforward getting to Charlevoix, but a car is required. I go into my day-by-day itinerary of the region, making recommendations and lessons learned as I go along.

Ultimately, I’d recommend Charlevoix to people who like to explore quaint towns and sprawling scenery. The area is also known for its Flavour Trail — a self-guided tour of local farms, producers and restaurants. We opted for a more activity-fuelled itinerary packed with nature-based excursions including hiking, whale watching and rock climbing.

Getting to Charlevoix: You need to drive, one way or another. You need a car to get there and once you’re there. We planned to fly Porter Airlines from Billy Bishop to Quebec City and rent a car from there. But because Microsoft broke and the world skipped a beat, all Quebec City flights were cancelled. We walked over to Billy Bishop to strategize with the Porter people and decided to change our flights to Montreal — which would at least get us to the right province. From there, we ended up Ubering to the Quebec City airport because we needed to get to Enterprise before it closed at midnight. Mission successful. Then we had another two-hour drive before checking into Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu at 3 a.m. (The way back to Toronto was seamless.)

Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu: I enjoy Fairmonts. They’re charming and have great service and I love that it’s a Canadian brand. The Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu just celebrated its 125th anniversary. It’s rich with history and views — sitting atop the St. Lawrence River. The people who work at the Le Manoir Richelieu are super kind and accommodating — ensuring all of our personal and dietary needs were met. It feels like an “I’ve a feeling we’re not in the city anymore” vibe — the pace is slower. The actual hotel is huge and there’s a lot to do on the property, but there’s a historical je ne sais quoi. Get in line now if you want a coffee from the Bellerive Cafe — it’s delicious coffee served at vacation speed.

Hiking: There are so many places to hike in Charlevoix — the meteor left exciting terrain. We grabbed a picnic lunch from Cafe Chez Nous and headed to an information centre for Parc Municipal de Baie-des-Rochers at 502 rue Saint-Laurent to see which route to trek. We wanted something challenging but also only had a few hours. We ended up going to a trail that started right next to the information centre and enjoyed an hour and half-ish hike. I’d classify it as an “intermediate” hike. I’d suggest taking a map from the centre as the locals are really sweet but predominantly only speak French, which I don’t speak.

I like exploring Charlevoix because it doesn’t feel like what I know. The language is mostly French, there isn’t any traffic, large malls or buildings. It’s a very artsy town with lots going on in the summer, from music festivals to art shows and more.

Whale watching: I’m still cold. I went with Zodiac Whale Watching AML Cruises on a three-hour tour. The team mentioned that maybe I should go on the larger boat versus the smaller, faster, splashier boat because the water was choppy and rain was threatening, but I didn’t listen and don’t regret it. They provided waterproof overalls and a jacket, but my shoes and face still got soaked. I saw some beluga and grey whales. The person who led our tour was knowledgeable and provided interesting facts along the way — she spoke English very well. However, if I were to return, I’d brush up on my French numbers one through 12, because the tour operator uses a “clock” system to share where she sees whales. So by the time I realized onze means 11, the whale was gone. Whale watching was what brought me to this region. I didn’t realize that there were whales to watch in Quebec. It was an exhilarating experience filled with cool cold views of the St. Lawrence River (dress warmly).

Dinner at Bistro Auberge Chez Truchon: Bistro Auberge Chez Truchon is located on a cute street in the town of La Malbaie. It’s an upscale but still family-friendly restaurant. Most people were dressed up a bit. It’s a nice “date night” restaurant as it’s a cozy place with beautifully presented food that will cost from $50-$100 per person. I had vegetarian soup, fish and some stolen fries and enjoyed the meal. 

Ziplining/rock climbing: I’m still in shock. We signed up for ziplining at Project Vertical which is located in the Fairmont. When I think “hotel entertainment,” I think sweet borderline lame activities — this was not that. I innocently came dressed to the activity in sweats and sandals (because my runners were still whale-watching wet) but was quickly instructed to put on closed-toe shoes. I also switched to shorts and a tank. The ziplining is okay — very standard. But then there’s a ropes course and then the side of a cliff. I had no idea what I signed up for and I think that was evident to the operator as he assigned himself to me. He literally had to hold my hand — and foot — to show me where to place them to climb the wall. The rock climbing is divided into two parts, the “family” part and the more difficult area. The operator suggested I don’t do the more difficult part and this time I listened. 

This activity was with another eight people or so and everyone else continued as I happily waited back. Everyone else knew what they signed up for, I was surprised. After the activity, I asked the operator why he assigned himself to me and in his French-lish he mimed and said “I have eyes.” So thankful for those eyes and his willingness to help traverse the side of a cliff. I had so much fun and recommend this activity for those who like to get real close with nature.

Charlevoix Astrobleme Observatory visit: The Charlevoix Astrobleme Observatory is great for families but I loved my experience there too. It’s located in the original clubhouse of the 100-year-old Le Manoir Richelieu Golf Club. The centre has lots of hands-on opportunities with interesting and sparkly rocks and celestial objects. Our guide was so engaging (she spoke English well), had a wealth of knowledge and was passionate about her role. I thoroughly enjoyed learning about rocks, minerals and meteors, including the big one that created the crater that is now Charlevoix. I had so much fun and asked to come back that night to check out the full moon from the observation deck — fully stocked with binoculars and telescopes.

Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu Golf Club: I’m no golfer but can appreciate the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu Golf Club for its beautiful views. The golf course was inaugurated on June 18, 1925, by former U.S. President William H. Taft, who spent his summers in the region. I enjoyed learning about the course’s history but the vantage point of the St. Lawrence River is the real MVP.

Saffron Nordic: I knew almost nothing about saffron. Now I know a little more about the most expensive spice in the world thanks to the friendly owners of Saffron Nordic. Saffron Nordic offers farm tours and saffron tastings. The farm owners also didn’t know anything when first starting their venture but set out “to be the best at it.” The farm is beautifully located atop a hill with a classic breathtaking Charlevoix view of the St. Lawrence River. There’s a small boutique on the property with lots of saffron-infused treats. The experience was informative and delicious, but overall, it was nice to get to know the passionate people behind the production.

Heli-Charlevoix: This was my first time in a helicopter and for what seemed like the first time this trip, I was calm and collected. The team at Heli-Charlevoix is so kind. The person who greeted us was very nice and took lots of videos and photos as we departed and landed. The pilot, also very nice, immediately shared that his “English” isn’t so good — my boyfriend and I both heard “vision” but were still questionably calm as we figured out what he actually said. This experience was incredible. It’s a small helicopter with lots of windows, perfect for taking in the stunning expansive beauty of Charlevoix.

I had an amazing time exploring Charlevoix and enjoyed all the planned and unplanned experiences. For example, there was a projection project around the region, so many spaces were lit up with animations. Also, the full moon. What a treat to see a massive moon rise from the St. Lawrence River. And the first trip with the boy was a complete success.